A New Wonderland at Marni | Fashion Show Review, Ready-to-Wear Autumn 2020


MILAN, Italy — On Francesco Risso’s Marni catwalk, there rested a large silver capsule, looking like one thing freshly fallen from house. The designs emerged from it, heads smeared and slicked with stardust, their apparel a patchwork of outdated fabrics and clashing textures: dusters matching raw cotton to metallic leather, a coat of bleached velvet, a substantial cardigan stitched jointly from mismatched panels of knits, a leather-based blazer above a dressing gown, a distressed brocade tied with a ribbon over a loincloth that might have been flocked wallpaper in another lifestyle.

Remnants, pasted, pierced, tied, tacked, stitched. I saw not only wallpaper, but cushion covers, shower curtains, tapestries, bedsheets, fragments of inside design…imagine an outdated property and all its contents getting stripped back to bare boards, then just about every morsel of that deconstruction being remade by aliens with no roadmap to the remodelling. “An insatiable mosaic,” Risso imagined far too. “Trying to reconstruct a sand mandala that has been blown aside by the wind.”

There was a wind — an electronic a single — roaring on the soundtrack as the women who experienced fallen to earth moved by means of the tented house (just like they tented the ET in Spielberg’s movie). They ended up all Alice, dropped down the rabbit gap, relearning their new globe, their new wonderland. “Where do I appear from?” they plaintively questioned, by means of Risso’s shownotes. “Where do I go?” Which was the issue posed by one of the most popular songs from HAIR!, the hippy-trippy musical that launched Center The usa to psychedelia in the late 60s. “Follow my hand,” was a single of the lyricist’s responses. Risso would possibly agree. “Behind each item, there’s a hand,” he offered just after the exhibit, though he was attempting to elucidate his creative approach to a sea of uncomprehending faces. “Is it the hand of time, or is the time of the hand?”

It could, of study course, be each. The previous was a substantial existence in Risso’s assortment. The antique brocades ended up woven on Venetian looms developed by Leonardo. The designer rhapsodised about materials that took so long to make they ended up considerably far more treasured than banal fur. And if they now existed only as scraps, Risso would uncover the magnificence in these leftovers, building art with them applying the system as a canvas. This piecing with each other of components, outdated and new, is liable for the intricacy, the ingenuity of his layouts. His most up-to-date appears were being the purest expression to date of his ethos.

But that didn’t signify they weren’t considerably less demanding than common. I mentioned inside style before. It struck me that the inside that Risso was seriously interested in creating was the human psyche. Which is, properly, a single fifty percent of the term “psychedelia.” His clothes, so fiercely antithetical to fashion conference, have been transmissions. His models on Friday were being emissaries. Risso danced down the catwalk as the White Rabbit. How several Alices will stick to him down the Marni rabbit hole? “Your thoughts are the responses,” he claimed.

I just cannot assist myself, I’m heading back to HAIR! and a further heartfelt query from “Where Do I Go?”: “Where is the someone that tells me why I are living and die?” Solutions on a postcard you should, c/o Francesco Risso at Marni.

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