MILAN, Italy — Daniel Lee has often loved dance. It’s possible if his chips experienced fallen in another way, he would have ended up in a corporation, treading the boards at Lincoln Centre or La Scala or Sadler’s Wells. Instead, he’s helming Bottega Veneta, one of the world’s leading luxury makes. Not this kind of a negative trade-off. But the flame nevertheless burns. Lee’s adore affair with dance impressed his new selection. Extend, elongation, motion were his motivations. Dancing sorts crocheted into a spiderweb of netting have been a especially memorable takeaway. It is a shame that the types did not bust moves to clearly show just how straightforward it would have been to conduct a ballet in Lee’s appears.
The established was a classical sculpture backyard, projected on the type of scrim you’d typically see dressing the stage for a dance corporation. Price tag-powerful there, but a substantial statement about building sustainable spectacle below. A established that leaves no actual physical trace? Inform that to the Chanels and Diors of the environment. If you viewed intently, the statues moved a little, eerily. That theatrical prosper was a reflection of Lee’s religion that manner requirements to just take us somewhere which isn’t right here. Now, more than at any time.
He opened with menswear: very long, dark, high-waisted and lean. Stylish youthful princes. The very same monochrome magnificence carried more than to the womenswear, besides when it did not. The cross Lee bears is his years at Celine. That time put in in the Philo trenches can make him a focus on for the purists who obsess that nothing at all can at any time be once more as it when was, unless it copies. Lee’s sequinned, ruched shift in chartreuse was a place of major demarcation. But it was the emphasis on physicality that was a better indicator of what his individual signature may well be. Adut Akech’s bared shoulders and included arms, the backlessness of Fran Summers’s next-pores and skin knit, the chain-lined scoop of Vittoria Cerretti’s knit shift…they billboarded the collection’s dialogue involving restraint and release. When I spoke to him the other working day, Lee acknowledged the energy of sexuality in his perform. It certain is not really hard to think about how that electric power bangs a gong with customers who just can’t be bothered with parsing pussyfooting subtlety.
Lee’s Bottega has hit tricky and quickly with a few of pleased-accident handbags from the brand’s archives. Gals all about the planet are stroking their Pouches even as we sit listed here in our electronic convo. Sensibly, Lee went again to the similar source but, alternatively than subvert tradition, as he did when he exploded Bottega’s signature intrecciato leather weave (the explosion looked really fascinating in the men’s gilet he showed on Friday), he chose to regard it this time with a great huge intrecciato tote. It was generally a person of the very best-wanting bags in the entire world. Nevertheless is.
Lee’s conclusion illuminated his smarts. When you are the new male in town, it is finest not to toss the baby out with the bathwater. He’s a pragmatist, which only signifies he is familiar with what happens when you’re very hot. So it is heading to be interesting to see if Daniel Lee truly can do no mistaken.